Chasing the Northern Lights | Reykjavik, Iceland

Iceland is one of those unique places that has an attraction that people fly to the country with the sole purpose of seeing. Amidst the Instagram photos of black sand beaches and the cold expanse of the North Atlantic Ocean you're peppered with dazzling green photos interspersed with shots of pink and purple. In the old days the Nordic men thought that this natural wonder was the Gods speaking to them. They are of course, the Northern Lights.

I know just before setting off on our trip to Iceland at the beginning of February that I went with a lot of negativity. I'd had a horrendous week and I couldn't help but feel like this this would carry on into my trip. Therefore to me seeing the Northern Lights would be a distant want, something I'd be dying to see but would come to Iceland and miss the one thing we were going there for. How wrong I was. 

On the first night, after driving around the narrow streets of Reykjavik with snow piled high on either side of the road and big dips near the curbs the car would casually slide down, we decided we would increase our chances of seeing the lights and set off immediately. When you mention to someone that you're travelling to Iceland tips and tricks are thrown around as to the best way to see the lights. Some people tell you to drive as far as you can into the country and wait, others tell you to jump on a boat with lots of other people and stand in the freezing ocean until everyone decides they've has enough and goes home. The problem with finding the lights is that something different seems to work for everyone, meaning it's very difficult to pin point the useful tips and what just spreads like Chinese whispers. 

That night we chose to go to the Grotta Island Lighthouse, a popular place to see the Northern Lights. It's incredibly easy to drive to from Reykjavik with it only being about a 12 minute trip from the Hallgrimskirkja Church. When we went it was impossible to reach the actually lighthouse as the water was so high, but personally I wouldn't recommend it. It's just far enough away from Reykjavik that there is minimal light pollution when facing away from the city and nothing to obstruct the sky. As we'd travelled very early in the morning that day we didn't last long, only staying for an hour or so before sneaking back to the city with our tails between our legs.

The next night we tried was our last night. Only being in Iceland for three nights it seemed imperative that we tried the last night, even if it would be futile. This ended up being a disorganised mess. We had researched the best places to see the Northern Lights and with a strong aversion to wanting to be stuck on a boat for hours we opted to drive around places near Reykjavik with the least amount of light pollution. This means we ended up driving to as many golf courses as we could find, believing that their grassy expanse would offer us the elusive lack of light we were looking for. The first gold course ended up being a massive dud, with floodlights bordering the entire parkland. However, the second golf course happened to be the one next to the Grotto Lighthouse where we had gone our first night. If you take the southern road when heading to the lighthouse you'll follow a small road which reaches the driving range. This is arguably a much better place with less light pollution and much less people.

On our way there we'd only driven up halfway up the road before we saw some pale green lights in the distance. There were incredibly dim so for a while we wondered if we were looking at a stray cloud of if they were indeed the Northern Lights. The one way that made us certain is how they moved in the sky, growing larger and then fading with each breath. For the next two hours we took long exposure shots on our GoPros, fully convinced this was it. How wrong we were.

After a few hours we decided to head home. Two minutes down the path and one of us in the car shouted us to get out. Upon doing so we saw the Northern Lights shoot across the sky directly above us. A strong green glow with pinks and purples rippling in the centre. Apparently it was the strongest the Northern Lights had been in Reykjavik all year.

So to recap, the best tips I could possibly give you are:

- Find a place away from the city with the least amount of light pollution possible.

- Hire a car so you can decide when and where you want to go. There's no fun in being stuck in the middle of the ocean at midnight for hours until everyone unanimously decides to give up.

- Bring plenty of snacks and hot drinks. I really believe a canister of hot chocolate saved my life.

- Use the Aurora Borealis app which you can download here.

- Take a GoPro if you want to capture those amazing long-exposure shots.

If you have any additional tips feel free to throw them my way!

Is Iceland as Environmentally Friendly as It Seems?

In this day and age with global warming looming ever closer over our heads like a ravenous eagle, while we (the field mice) try to dodge and evade its every move, sustainability for countries has become more important than ever. If you were to visit Iceland you'll see all sort of little indicators pointing towards its ethical standpoint. Walk into the arrivals lounge of Reykjavik airport and you're greeted by a stand which asks you to honour Iceland as an environmentally friendly country, with a big red button you can smack confidentially with your hand to hold you to that agreement. There's even a counter in bright red LED lights, now in the tens of thousands, as a stark reminder that you'll be bucking the trend if you don't comply. However, is this all for show? Is Iceland as sustainable as all the tourists say? Or is it just a clever marketing ploy to draw people in?

The Environmental Performance Index Score
Facts are facts and unfortunately when it comes to numbers and statistics Iceland's environmentally friendly leadership seems to have faltered. Back in 2010 Iceland has an EPI (Environmental Performance Index) score of 93.5, towering over its competition as the greenest country in the world. An EPI score is assessed from a number of different factors but split into two main sections; environmental health (air quality, water, sanitation) and ecosystem vitality (climate and energy, biodiversity, forests). Iceland ranked so highly in that year due to having most of its energy from renewable sources, high public health scores and leading the way in controlling its greenhouse gas emissions.

Fast forward to 2018 and Iceland has plummeted off the top spot and landed quite heavily at 11th place with a EPI score of 78.57, ranking below the United Kingdom at 6th place with a close score of 79.89. Although we all view Iceland as an environmentally friendly country how has it managed to score lower than the UK, arguably one of the most damned countries in the EU? Take a closer look at the scores and you'll see that Iceland's environmental health is one of the highest for all countries, second only to Finland. Where Iceland performs worst at is its ecosystem vitality that accounts for 60% of its overall score. This takes into account water resources, agriculture, forests, fisheries, biodiversity and habitat, and climate and energy. Where did it all go wrong?

Overfishing a Top Offender
As an island surrounded entirely by the sea it's no surprise that fishing is an integral part to Iceland's economy. For years Iceland and the EU have clashed in talks about over-fishing with Iceland firmly believing that they know best of how many fish they can catch from the sea before harming the environment. This is likely to have strongly affected Iceland's EPI score, with a particularly low rating for fish stock status which indicates how many fish are caught. That being said, Iceland ranks above notable fishing offenders such as Japan and Portugal. Linking in with this Iceland has a particularly low score for SOx emissions (sulphur dioxide) which is greatly impacted by the shipping industry. This can make aquatic environments acidic and affect the overall environmental friendliness of a country. If you've been to Iceland before you'll know that whale meat is surprisingly common in most restaurants in Reykjavik. If you want to help the problem avoid buying it and look for a more sustainable alternative.

Trailblazers in Sustainability
Although over-fishing might be the greatest weakness currently for Iceland it has plenty of positive environmental factors to rave about. Iceland leads as the top country in renewable energy with a plan to become the worlds first county completely reliant on renewable energy sources. With over 80% of total energy coming from geothermal power and hydropower, and 99% of its electricity production created the same way, Iceland is a trailblazer in sustainability. If you're looking to rent a car straight from the airport you'll see how environmentally friendly Iceland is with a specific view to showcase their renewable energy plastered all over the walls.

While there are many other factors to Iceland's environmentally friendly status, such as abhorrent over-tourism, there are plenty of reasons to praise Iceland for its efforts in tackling climate change. For now Switzerland has the top spot for environmental performance but there's no doubt that Iceland is quickly catching up.

A Million Uses for Coconut Oil

Yes, I appreciate that I'm massively late to the party, but I serve as living proof that a couple of us basic bitches out there still haven't heard of God's nectar. That is, coconut oil. It's been long known that coconut oil seems to be the cure and answer to every bit of life's little annoyances from tired eyes to dry hair. Here I've scoured the internet (and my own brain of course) to find every little use  I could for coconut oil. You'll soon see why everyone from your sister to your boss is buying, and repeat buying it. 

Skin:

1. Stretch marks - Prevents and softens stretch marks from pregnancy, weight gain/weight loss for soft and supple skin.

2. Scars - Coconut oil used over a period of time can reduce the appearance of scars.

3. Acne - Gently fights the bacteria that cause acne. Dab it directly on the offending pimples to watch them shrink.

4. Cleanser - Coconut oil makes an effective and gentle cleanser to remove the grime of the day.

5. Shaving cream - Coconut oil keeps the razor gliding smoothly while leaving skin smooth and soft.

6. Moisturiser - Coconut oil is an excellent way to soften and hydrate dry, rough or damaged skin.

7. Sunburn/after-sun care - Coconut oil helps prevent sunburn for short exposures. The oil also helps sooth burnt skin and speed up healing. Wait until your skin had cooled before applying or you'll trap the heat in - nasty!

8. Eye cream - Reduces puffiness and dark circles with a few dabs.

Beauty:

9. Lip balm - Coconut hydrates and protects your lips also offering some protection from the sun.

10. Make-up remover - Easily remove oil based makeup after a long days work or late night out. Perfect for mascara and some foundations.

11. Make-up brush cleaner - Use liquefied coconut oil to remove the grime make-up brushes collect and to protect the bristles.

12. Highlighter - Dab on your cheekbones or eyelids to give yourself a fresh faced, dewy look. 

13. Cuticle rub - Massaging coconut oil into cuticles will strengthen the cuticle region.

Hair:

14. Dandruff - Massaging coconut oil into your scalp eases symptoms of dandruff - itching and flaking.

15. Lice - Coconut oil kills and removes this highly annoying problem.

16. Conditioner - Coconut oil detangles hair and provides shine and moisture. Apply as a hair mask and leave on for half an hour and then wash out with warm water and shampoo.

17. Anti-frizz - Run a little bit of coconut oil through your hair with a fine toothed comb and leave in to tame your frizz.

18. Gum removal - Coconut oil can remove sticky bits in your hair such as the especially tricky gum.

Health:

19. Pink eye/styes - Waking up in the morning and finding out you have a stye is an instant day ruiner. Rub some coconut oil on the stye to quickly get rid of this annoying infection.

20. Nappy rash - Coconut oil helps relieve milk nappy rash gently and effectively.

21. Chicken pox - Ease itching and encourage healing with dabs of coconut oil. Also helpful for various insect and mosquito bites.

22. Yeast infections - Coconut oil helps fight these infections internally and externally.

23. Nose bleeds - If you've ever had a nosebleed you know the telltale signs of dry and cracked skin around your nostrils. Coconut oil can provide the perfect relief and prevent nose bleeds.

24. Sore throat - Dissolve a spoonful in your mouth and let the oil roll slowly down your throat for relief. This will help fight infection and protect the throat.

Cooking:
25. Butter - Spread coconut oil over your morning toast as a butter substitute for a healthier option.
26. Popcorn - Add melted coconut oil to your air-popped corn for a subtle flavour. Most places pop their corn with coconut oil so it's not as strange as it might sound.
27. Baking - You can use coconut oil in place of butter when baking but be sure to research all the different ways as it'll be different for every recipe.

28. Vegetable oil - Coconut oil is an awesome vegetable oil substitute but you'll need to make sure to keep it warm enough while mixing to avoid it from solidifying. 

If you can see anything I've missed off shoot me a comment below!

How to Live Life Like a Local in China

When travelling to a new country, it’s natural to feel like you’re the object of everyone’s stares and whispers. The funny thing about China is that you usually are!

In China, you’ll be thrown into an completely new culture where the customs and socials attitudes are entirely alien to your own. Maybe even more so with countries that have strict government and political views. But don’t worry, I’ve got your back. There’s no reason to feel like the odd one out with these handy tips of how to live like a local in China.

Learn the lingo.

The most crucial skill you can learn in a new country is their language. It opens up a whole new side of the country that would otherwise be impossible to interact with in your native tongue. It helps you to make friends, barter at markets, and can be an invaluable asset in an emergency. But, that’s not to say that you have to become fluent.

Although it’s now mandatory for children to learn English in China, you’ll find a fair few of the adults know only the basics or none at all. Even speaking a single word of Chinese to them will elicit smiles of delighted surprise at your efforts. People in China are extremely enthusiastic about practising their English with a native, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself frequently teaching outside of the classroom in your everyday life.

Find a couple of key phrases to wield and then build from there. For example an invaluable phrase I found was 'bu yao' which means ‘don’t want’. Perfect for when someone is harassing you to buy their souvenirs, an insufferable taxi driver who doesn't seem to get the idea or at a club when you're receiving unwanted attention.

Hang with the locals.

What better a way to get the local perspective than interacting with the people who’ve lived in China all their lives? They will be able to tell you the best places to go, when to go to avoid the tourist crowds, where and how you’ll be ripped off and much more. The longer you spend with them the more likely you are to start picking up local customs, such as not insisting to pay your part of the bill at a restaurant or trying not to look disgusted when people hack up and send a whopping lob of spit your way. It could be as easy as striking up a conversation in a bar or joining in on a game of football.

While you may feel a little alienated in the beginning, you’ll meet plenty of people. You’ll meet plenty of foreign teachers, you’ll get to know local Chinese people who’ll be dying to show you around the local area, and if you're teaching the headteacher might even take you out for welcome drinks. However, a word of warning; you must always accept alcohol from someone in China whom you wish to impress. Not that we have a problem with that!

There’s an app for that.

China is huge on their mobile phone use. They have an app for almost everything, and downloading a couple will make you look like a seasoned Beijinger. WeChat, their most popular app, is first and foremost a messaging app (think Facebook). But, it has a lot more to offer. It can help with almost every aspect of life in China, from ordering a taxi to checking your bank balance. When meeting a local, you’ll no doubt be asked if you have a WeChat, whether by a stranger at a bar, a friend or work colleagues. Showing that you use the app proves you’re in with China’s social networks and not a bumbling greenhorn.

Baidu is another app helpful for both locals and tourists alike. If you’re in a large city and are prone to getting lost, this handy little app is your ticket to freedom. It’s a maps app very similar to Google Maps, with the benefit of actually working in China. It cannot be stressed enough – using Google Maps in China is a surefire way to spend an evening wandering around lost and surrounded by labyrinthine buildings.

Finally, Taobao; an ecommerce shopping app where you can buy pretty much anything, from Chinese herbs to home comforts such as Malteasers. Similar to Amazon, but for the Chinese population. It’s largely addictive with its cheap deals and Western foods that are hard to come by.

While in China you’ll meet tons of new friends, but with these tips you’ll avoid falling into any tourist traps and skip to living the informed life of the local. You’ll soon have friends coming to you for ideas and advice.

So, what are you waiting for? 

A Super Easy Vegan Pizza Recipe

I can safely say that I can't cook to save my life. The best I can usually do is throw some dried pasta into a pan and then add a jar of sauce. Unfortunately everyone has to learn how to cook, especially if you're becoming vegan and need new recipes. So here's a really really easy recipe of how to make a vegan pizza. The best part about it is that you can have absolutely whatever you want on top. Perfect for lunch and dinner!

Ingredients:

The dough - Bread flour, 450g

           Yeast, 1 tsp

                  Olive oil, 1 tbsp

             Pinch of salt

              Water, 250ml

            The sauce - Chopped tomatoes, 1 tin

                Olive oil, 50ml
                                2 Garlic cloves, chopped

                              1 Onion, finely sliced    

                Basil, chopped

 Topping suggestions - Pepper, tomatoes, mushrooms, artichoke, red onion, eggplant, etc.

Recipe

1. To make the pizza dough first combine the yeast and warm water. Whisk with a fork and then set aside for 5 minutes.

2. Mix the flour and the salt together in a large mixing bowl including the olive oil and yeasty water. Feel free to mix the ingrediants with a wooden spoon on feel free to use your own hands.

3. Once everything is mixed together into the dough so that it is sticky but also forms into a ball, place on a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough  by pushing it back and forth with both hands shown in the image above. Push, rotate 90° and then push into the board and repeat. After ten minutes roll the dough back into a ball, place in a clean bowl and cover with clingfilm. Leave in a warm place to rise.

4. Wait for the dough to double in size, usually after about an hour. Separate into however many pizzas you want, place on a lightly floured surface and roll into thin disks with a rolling pin.

5. To make the tomato base heat half of the oil in a saucepan of medium-low flame and throw in the chopped onion, garlic, salt and pepper for 15 minutes. When the onions are transparent add in the fresh tomatoes and the rest of the oil. Cook gently for a further 15 minutes.

6. Add the tin of chopped tomatoes and simmer for an hour. Take the pan off the heat and add the chopped basil. Use a hand-blender to mix for a few minutes.

7. Add the sauce to the rolled out pizza base. Add any ingredients you want. Place in the oven at the highest heat and cook until browned. Serve with salad and garlic bread.

Voila! Vegan pizza, baby ~